My Journey to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu has always been a longstanding bucket list item for me. I will be honest that I did not put much thought into how I would get there. I started to hear about other people who did the Inca Trail and I thought that sounded pretty cool. I booked my trip a year prior to my departure and decided that I was going to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. I was by no means fit enough for this type of excursion and I knew that I had a lot of work to do to get my body in shape for this type of trek. I was up for the challenge.

I spent a significant amount of time reading everything there was to know about the trek and the challenge ahead of me. If you are not familiar with this trail, let me enlighten you. This trek is a four-day, three-night journey that starts at KM 82 (45 minutes outside the town of Ollantaytambo) that goes all the way to Machu Picchu. The entire trek is approximately 40 km (25 miles), with a significant amount of that time up steep, narrow paths along the Andean Mountain at high altitude.

Here is a breakdown of the four days provided by my tour company, G Adventures and some additional research found online:

Day 1 – Inca Trail KM 82 to Wallabamba Camp 5-6hours; 11 km

• The trekking is fairly easy and serves as good training for the next few days.

Elevation Gain: 350 meters

Difficulty: Moderate, with a steep tiring section towards the end

Day 2 – Wayllabamba Camp – Paqaymayo Camp; 6-7hrs; 12km

• The trail ascends the long, steep path to Warmiwañusca, better known as Dead Woman’s Pass—the highest point on the Inca Trail, at 4,198 meters (13,769 feet). Enjoy stunning views of the Sacred Valley as you make your way up the rugged terrain, and aim to reach our camp by early afternoon. Rest and relax at camp the remainder of the day.

Elevation Gain: 1,115 meters

Difficulty: High, this is the hardest day of walking but after you reach Dead Woman’s Pass, it’s mostly downhill.

Day 3 – Paqaymayo Camp – Wiñaywayna; 9 hrs; 16km

• Cross two passes and more ruins along the Inca Trail on the last full day of hiking. Traverse Runquraway at 3,950m (13,113 ft), and then reach the second pass at 3,700m (12,136 ft).

Elevation Gain: Minus 1,000 meters

Difficulty: Moderate to a little difficult as there are several steep sections

Day 4 – Wiñaywayna – Machu Picchu; 2h-3h; 6km

• Wake around 03:30 to reach the Sun Gate as early as possible. Head to the checkpoint and join the lineup to wait for the gate to open. Catch the first views of the breathtaking ruins of Machu Picchu (fingers crossed for a clear day). Hike down to Machu Picchu (about 45 minutes) for a 1.5 hr guided tour of the site, and free time to explore.

Difficulty: You are almost at the end and Machu Picchu, you should be hopping, skipping, and jumping all the way there!

In addition to this, I had read somewhere online that there are approx. 4,000+ stairs to climb along the trek (I believe it was on either day 3 or 4), including a set of monkey stairs. I knew I had a significant amount of work to do if I was going to get ready for this. I was definitely ruled by fear and was highly motivated to get at it.

Here is what my training looked like starting a year prior to my trip (September 2021):

• Spin Class – 6:00 am every morning (M-F); I usually added one more class on the weekends (either Sat or Sun depending on my schedule)
• Various workouts in the evening – I found an online fitness program (Our Gym Class – https://gym-class.ca/) that included five workouts a week, which included strength, cardio, etc. I followed their program and did five classes per week
• Yoga – I typically did a few yoga classes a week as I needed to stretch out by body

By spring, I had decided to add in walking at lunch with a colleague and stair training. My goal was to be able to do 4,500+ stairs by the end of August/early September (just before my trip). My goal was to be able to add ten sets of stairs at Heritage Ranch (158 stairs per set) each month, June-Aug, getting me to about 4,740 stairs by the end of summer.

In the middle of July, I went and did a moderate hike with friends in Lake Louise and it was a struggle for me. I came to the crushing realization that if I struggled with this that I was in no way prepared for the Inca Trail. I had a bit of a panic attack and decided I needed to up my training again. My online fitness program was offering personalized training programs for people who were interested. I signed up and got a three-day program from them that I started in August (six weeks from trip departure). These workouts included treadmill intervals and strength training for my legs. These were some seriously tough workouts but I knew I had to do them!

Throughout the summer, I was consistently working out three times a day and six days a week, only allowing one rest day a week. I was pretty much still doing spin every morning, and switched up to personal training three days a week in August. I was typically walking with a colleague at lunch or doing stairs at work during my lunch hour. In the evening, I was either doing stairs or still working on my online fitness classes. I did manage to meet my stair goal of 30 sets of stairs at Heritage Ranch, which amounted to 4,740 stairs. I had pretty much done everything in my power to get ready for this trail. I was ready but was still very anxious.

As I was preparing to leave for my trip, everyone had provided me with well wishes and congratulations for all the hard work I had put in and that they were looking forward to hearing about my success when I returned. I was surprised to see how inspired I made the people around me. I think everyone around me had witnessed my struggle and motivation and they all felt invested in the outcome.

I had about five days in Peru visiting Lima, the Amazon jungle and spending one day in Cusco to climatize to the altitude prior to the trek. Between the long flights, early mornings and a bit of a spider scare in the jungle, I was fairly sleep deprived in these first five days of my trip.

As I was leaving the Amazon jungle, I must have eaten or drank something that didn’t agree with my body and I wasn’t feeling very good as we boarded the plane to Cusco. I actually was quite ill on the plane and thought I was going to be sick. Luckily, I managed to keep it together but I had a few people on the tour tell me I was looking pretty green as we arrived in Cusco.

Once in Cusco, I spent the remainder of the day and evening in my hotel room. I skipped dinner and the evening activities to get some much-needed rest and to organize my bags. As it turns out, I was also really struggling with the higher altitude. Cusco is located at 3,399 meters above sea level. I had brought with me some medication to lessen the altitude sickness symptoms which I had started to take a few days prior to arrival in Cusco. However, I was definitely noticing the effects of the altitude and getting fairly sick in the hotel room that first night. I messaged my tour guide to see if this was normal and she asked if I had brought any antibiotics with me. I had and she recommended to start taking them. When I travel to places where the drinking water isn’t safe to drink, I will always bring with me some broad-spectrum antibiotics for this specific situation. I started the first day of my antibiotics that first night in Cusco.

The next morning, we had a full day’s tour throughout the Sacred Valley visiting various stops and ruins along the way. It was a fair bit of driving to get to each place. I was still feeling very unwell and ate very little throughout the day. I was starting to feel better in the evening and I ate a normal dinner. It was the wrong choice. I was definitely sick all night and through to the next morning, which was the day we started the trek.

Our tour group had split into two (trekkers and non-trekkers) and the trekkers were up fairly early in the morning to get their bags weighed (our porters would only carry up to 6 kg) and the remainder of our stuff to be carried ourselves. We were loaded up into a van and drove to the starting point at KM 82. My anxiety was at an all-time high and I had to take lots of deep breaths and give myself a bit of a pep talk on the way. I was nervous about the trail but now I was also nervous about my stomach issues while trying to do this trek.

We arrived at KM 82 and checked in. They needed to verify our passports as they keep track of everyone on the trail and make sure we all have the appropriate permits (the tour takes care of this for us). At this point, we receive our rental sleeping bags and mats. These two items weigh 3.5kg leaving very little room for other items. We got a bit of a debrief from the guides, a snack bag to take with us and a short tour through a museum showing the history of the restoration projects over the years.

Then we were off. We walked to the “Welcome to the Inca Trail” sign and used this as a good photo op to take group photos as well as individual ones. I tried to take lots of pictures along the way. The trail started out relatively flat. It seemed not too bad. I naturally ended up at the back of the pack. I was exhausted and it was much warmer than I expected. I was definitely wearing too many layers of clothes. When we got to a breaking point, I shed an extra pair of pants and my long sleeve shirt. I also used this breaking point to use the bathroom, eat a banana (my only food so far that day) and get a small rest before we carried on. As I was behind the group, I was late getting to all the break points, which left me with shorter breaks than everyone else.

Then we were off again and there were a few hilly sections. I got further behind from the group. When I met up with them at the next break point, one of the guys on the tour helped me get my pack off. The group was a bit concerned for me and suggesting to drink some electrolytes. It was no secret that I was struggling and feeling unwell.

We took off again and I fell even further back from the group. There was more of an incline on this section of the trail and I was very slow. I was struggling to catch my breath. One of the guys on our tour came down and grabbed my pack to carry it up for me. I had a really hard time with this. I am someone who doesn’t like accepting help from others and I wanted to carry my own weight on this journey. I knew that this trek would be difficult and I was wanting to be able to overcome this on my own. In the end, I let him take my bag. The reality is that I was sick and I was struggling a lot more than the rest of the group. I had to just let it go. Sometimes we need to accept the help that others are offering.

After getting to the top of this inclined section, we had a bit of a larger break while the guide was explaining the archaeological site to us. We had a really great view point and we had a fair bit of time to take some great photo opportunities.

We carried on again, I fell behind the group again but not as bad this time as this section was mostly downhill. When I arrived at camp, everyone clapped. I was a bit embarrassed as I was trying not to draw attention to myself. I now realize that this is normal practice and they clap for everyone that arrives at camp. The porters had arrived ahead of us and had lunch already prepared (they are all amazing)! As this was the first meal of the day and I was hungry, I tried to eat as much as I could without overdoing it with my stomach. At this point, I was taking my last antibiotic and I was praying that my stomach issues would be finished.

After lunch, we were provided a half hour break to digest and rest before moving on. The following section was uphill and I fell behind the group again. Once again, one of the guys from my tour came down to help me with my backpack. I met up with the group for a quick break before carrying onto the last leg of the day. The tour guide suggested to have one of the cooks carry my bag the rest of the way (approx. 30 minutes) and that I just carry my drinking water. This definitely helped a bit. I was really having a hard time with the altitude and thin air!

I finally made it to camp 45 minutes later to another round of applause. The group showed me to my tent so I was able to set up my sleeping bag and mat and get my stuff organized during daylight. We had a tea time with some crackers and tea. They also made us popcorn! We had more free time before dinner so I used this time to stretch my legs and journal.

At dinner, I tried to eat as much as I could with out upsetting my stomach. It seemed to be doing a bit better but I didn’t want to make it worse by overeating. Afterwards, we all got ready for bed to try and get as much sleep. We knew we had an early morning the next day.

Overall, I thought I had a pretty good day considering how unwell I was. My chest felt like I had a really bad cold and I suspect that was from the high altitude. I enjoyed the views along the way and thought it was an incredible experience thus far.

I was a bit nervous and anxious about the following day as I knew this was the toughest day of the trail with Dead Woman’s Pass. I had a restless sleep between my anxiety, the cold temperatures and the rooster cock a doodling at three in the morning. The guides brought us cocoa tea around five as part of our morning wake up call. We had about 40 minutes to pack up our stuff and meet for breakfast. I forced myself to eat something even though I wasn’t hungry – the guides made us pancakes and oatmeal for breakfast.

When I went to fill up my water bottles, I realized there wasn’t enough for me to have the recommended three liters of water. They weren’t planning to make any more water so I had to just go with what I had. We started hiking and it wasn’t long before I fell behind the group. I was definitely having a hard time breathing and was only walking 20-30 steps before needing a break. The guide that was with me was recommending that I turn back.

I continued on for awhile longer and realized that the guide was likely more educated about this hike than I am and that I should probably listen to his recommendation. I suspect my stubbornness and sheer will power would have kept me going. But having the guide continually tell me that I wasn’t going to make it eventually sunk in. The reality is that I was struggling far more with the altitude than anyone else in my group and it was only going to get worse. At the next break stop, we decided it was best for me to turn back so I did.

The only way to get back is to go out the same way you got in which meant I had to hike back down the day two portion and the entire day one section again. It was awful. It was the worst walk of shame of my life. I was absolutely deflated and it was taking everything I had not to cry. It was already so awkward with me and the guide that was escorting me back.

I was struggling with whether or not I made the right decision. I had worked so hard for the past year for this and I was having doubts of whether I should have turned back or not. I asked the universe for a sign. It wasn’t long after that I saw a large green hummingbird on a tree. I knew in that moment that it was my grandma telling me that I had made the right call. I felt better about turning back. My grandma had passed away one week prior to my departure to Peru and she loved hummingbirds.

It was an extremely long and terrible day on my walk of shame back down the Inca Trail. Everyone you pass on the way down knows you didn’t make it and it was an awful feeling. As we were nearing the end of the trail, there was an opportunity to hire a motor bike to take us the rest of the way (the flat part). As I was still feeling unwell, I was starving and I was thirsty (there was not enough water, nor was there food); I definitely took them up on this! Afterwards, we had to walk to the local bus to catch a ride into town. The guide that was with me found me a hotel to sleep in for the night. I had about thirty minutes to get cleaned up before we needed to leave again to get my train ticket for tomorrow.

We took a taxi to the train station as I was completely exhausted by this point and we purchased my train ticket to Aguas Calientes for tomorrow. The tour guide was really kind and offered to tour me around the town and to go for dinner with me. I declined. At this point, I really just wanted to rest and call my family back home. I knew everyone back home was patiently waiting for me to share my success story at the end and I just really wanted to let everyone know that I didn’t make it. I needed this all to be over with and I didn’t want to drag it out any longer.

I spent the rest of the evening just getting some rest, having a good cry and calling my family back home to let them know what happened. I also emailed my colleagues at work and posted on my social media that I didn’t make it. Everyone was really kind in their responses. I went to bed fairly early that night and had a really good sleep.

The following morning, I took my time getting ready to leave. I need to re-pack and sort my bags before checking out. I had a friend message me that morning admitting her little secret that she also didn’t make it on the Inca Trail! I had no idea – I thought she had completed it. I felt so much better that I wasn’t alone!

I checked out of the hotel room and walked down to the train station with my guide. I waited for our main tour guide and the remainder of the tour group (non-trekkers) to arrive. The majority of the group made me feel better about what happened on the trail and that I should be proud of what I accomplished considering how sick I was.

We boarded the train and it was a pretty neat layout with large windows beside and above us. We had amazing views the entire way. We even seen the starting point of the Inca Trail. The train ride was approximately an hour long before arriving in Aguas Calientes. We left our bags with someone from the hotel to carry up the hill for us while we went for lunch. This was my first meal since breakfast on the Inca Trail. My stomach issues were starting to subside and I was actually hungry.

Afterwards, we headed to our hotel. The tour guide and I had to make a pit stop to buy my bus ticket up to Machu Picchu tomorrow. We had the entire afternoon free to explore the town and it was a pretty and quaint town. I was planning on doing some shopping. However, I decided to have a nap first and ended up napping the entire afternoon, evening and sleeping all night. I guess I was more exhausted than I realized.

The following morning, we had to be ready to go very early so that we could get in line to catch the bus up to Machu Picchu. The bus ride had spectacular views along the way as we rode the bus up the mountain. We had finally arrived in Machu Picchu!

Our tour group was split into two groups and my group started on the lower section of Machu Picchu. We were provided with a local tour guide to show us around and explain the history and different areas of the ruins. Our guide showed us the various rooms that the Incas had lived in, the classrooms that children were taught in and the sacred sun temples for worship.

After we finished exploring the lower section of Machu Picchu, we had to climb up to get the view points from the upper section. This is the iconic viewpoint of all of Machu Picchu. It was a bit of a hike up with the altitude but we made it. Our guide gave us time to take pictures and even took a few for us.

The entire ruins of Machu Picchu overlook the Andes Mountains and feels very secluded from the rest of the world. I can appreciate how this became a very special place to live and why the Incas feared being invaded. Their fear resulted in the Incas hiding the trail and burying the city to ensure it was not discovered by the Spanish. The lost city was re-discovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham and efforts were made to excavate the ruins and restore it.

Overall, my journey to Machu Picchu did not go as I had anticipated but I still arrived at my destination. In the end, all that really mattered was getting to see Machu Picchu; how I got there is irrelevant. I feel truly blessed that I was able to see this magnificent wonder of the world.

Please note: My intention is not to discourage people from attempting the trail – I absolutely think if you want to try it that you should! It was an extremely great motivator to increase my overall fitness level and gave me an amazing goal to work towards. My intention was to share my story so that others do not feel alone. In all of my research, I had not come across anyone that talked about not completing the trek. In fairness, my research was primarily about the hike and not about failure rates. Once I shared that I was unsuccessful, I had other people share stories with me about their own attempt at the trail or that they got extremely sick on the trail. You are not alone!